Not sure if anyone is interested, but sharing some knowledge I've gained through trial and error with 3D Printing.

Recommended 3DPrinter For Starter/Intermediate:
BIQU-B1 by BigtreeTech - Price as of 02/2021 - $267
32bit main board (quiter motors, faster processing of gcode, custom Marlin Firmware edits allowed)
Filament type: PLA,ABS,PETGMotor Accuracy: +- 0.1mm
Print Size: 235*235*270mm (xyz)
Max Print Speed: 100mm/s
Touch screen interface, filament break detection, single nozzle, highly expandable (based on C10 style printers like Ender 3)
Recommended additons for the B1:
BLTouch Leveling Probe - allows for the extruder to correct height in small amounts over a mapped area of the bed (doesn't level the printer for you, but can correct for high and low points on the bed to get much closer to perfect)
2x3010 24v 2pin blower fans/ 3x 4010 24v 2pin silent or performance fans - the stock fans are not bad, but I had a few start screaming and go out on mine.
Raspberry PI 3b with Octoprint installed - allows for a ton of features through plugins and control from your workstation.
Setting up the B1:
The instructions included are very easy to follow, however a few pointers that get glossed over: after assembling the printer, make sure you use the touch screen to "Home" the XY and Z axis before leveling. Preheat the bed and nozzle using the preheat button on the touchscreen before leveling, as the bed and nozzle swell and move due to heat.
Adding the BLTouch to the B1:
Prereqs needed:
-Included SDCard-Raspberry PI with Octoprint or some other method of sending GCode to the Printer-Firmware with tweaks for Bed Leveling with a probe, the following is an active link with an already complied firmware, note if the link is dead, simply search for BIQU B1 BLTouch firmware, it should give you some active github links: you can also compile your own version of Marlin, I have seen a few post on Reddit and other sites that go into very nice detail on this)-One sheet of printer paper (for leveling)
Copy the firmware.bin file to the root of the SDCard.
Power on the printer
Insert the SDCard into the SDCard slot closet to the back of the printer (both are on the right side, one is at the front, the other closer to the back, this is the one)
Power off the printer
Power on the printer
Wait a few seconds
Power off the printer
Remove the SDCard
On your workstation check the SDCard, the firmware.bin file should now be a firmware.cur file, this means it worked.
Power on the printer
Connect to the printer with Octoprint (or whatever you are using to send GCode)
In the terminal (default plugin in Octoprint where GCode can be sent to the printer) do the following (note lines with ; are just comments, you don't have to add them):
M502 ; This resets settings to configuration defaults...M500 ; This saves those settings to EEPROM.M501 ; Sanity check to read the settings saved.
M190 S65 M104 S210 ; Preheats the bed and nozzle
G28 ; Homes XYZ. The Z homing should happen last - the nozzle moves; to the centre of the bed and deploys twice.; If this doesn't happen and the Z homes like normal,; the firmware is incorrectly configured or not updated.G29 P1 ; Tells the probe to start reading the bed (takes a little while to finish).G29 P3 T ; Interpolates points the probe couldn't reach
G29 T ; List the values for you to see (mainly used for sanity check).G29 S1 ; Save UBL mesh points to EEPROM.
G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm. (found in every guide I've read, so I'm including it to be safe)
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.M500 ; Save current setup.Now that the UBL is setup, you need to configure the offset for the Z nozzles height (biggest pain for sure, but once you get it dialed in, it makes super smooth prints)
Preheat the bed and nozzle
Once heated lay your sheet of paper on the bed
In Octoprint (or your GCode editor) send the following:
G28  ;Home's all axis, Z should be in the center of the bed, or close to it
G1 Z0  ;This will lower the Z axis to the bed where the board believes 0 height is
Move your paper back and forth just like the original leveling when you built the printer, your looking to have the paper rub the nozzle ever so slightly (I've found that if the paper scrubs when I pull and push but doesn't bend up when I push that's the sweet spot)
Instead of turning the leveling knobs to lower or raise the nozzle, you will want to use Octoprint or the Babystep via the touchscreen to lower/raise the Z axis 0.1 to 0.01 at a time until you fine tune it in, once the paper feels good do the following:
Remove the paper
Through GCode send the following commands:
M114 ; Tells you the current Z position. It should be a negative number. Note this down, subtracting the width of the paper (~0.1 mm). E.g. If this returns -2.0, I would use -2.1.
(if the above code does not send back a negative Z you can use the number in the baby step menu, but I feel it's safer to rely on what the board is sending)
M851 Z0   ;sets the Z offset to 0
M500  ;saves the Z offset
M851 Z(the number you got from the M114)  ;example M851 Z-2.61
M500  ;saves the new Z offset
G28  ;homes everything again
Now do a test print of anything you'd like, I like using "test print" files from Thingiverse, but anything will do. You are looking for 1. adhesion 2. smooth look on the print 3. universal look for all areas of the print (ie the entire model looks the same, as in the top right looks bubbly but the rest is fine is a bad thing)
If you got all 3 results then you're set, check your leveling via the touchscreen occasionally or whenever the printer is bumped etc, and you should have a very reliable setup.Here's a screenshot of the "look" you're looking for: